قبة الصخرة
The location of the Dome of the Rock is holy for all three Abrahamic religions. Historically it is symbolic of a dozen things, but it exists daily as an ever present component of life in Jerusalem. Walking to campus every morning from the student village on Mount Scopus offers amazing views of this building. On the best day it gleams as a reminder of God and what people have done in this place but it can also stand as a reminder of how much there is still left to fight about.
Yet, despite being easy to observe, visiting the site itself is less obtainable. Although awe-inspiring, being a holy location for three major religions makes it a hot spot for politics and tension. Because of this tourism is limited to 7:30am-10:30am and 12:30pm-1:30pm but with no predictability on whether it will actually be open (except weekends are predictable, because it's not open for tourists on weekend). Additionally there will be long lines, lots of people, and intense security. Oh, and tourists can't actually enter the Dome of the Rock.
Thankfully, I've never been one to really take well to the phrase "tourist". When in Rome, do as the Romans do.... So, when in Muslim holy places, well, go as a Muslim. It was something I had considered early on in the semester. I've studied Islam pretty extensively and in a variety of concepts. I know my shahada, can reference the Qur'an, and speak a far bit of Arabic. But could I pass as a Muslim in one of their holiest sites filled with security?
It only took a Jewish holiday for me to build up the courage to find out. At a friend's Hannukah party I started a conversation with Elham, a local Arab student from East Jerusalem. I mentioned the idea of going and for some reason instead of calling me on my insanity she offered to accompany me! Only days later she showed up at my apartment, extra hijab in hand, and we took off to Al-Aqsa.
The adventure started early. Within moments of stepping out of my apartment complex we managed to miss the bus. A random Arab man with a van pulled over not even a minute later and offered us a ride. Elham looked at me, said "you don't care for your organs, do you?", and climbed in the back. Arabic music filled the air as we headed toward Damascus gate.
The most nerve wracking part came next. First we had to walk past all the Israeli Defense Forces and then the local Arab security at the gate. Somehow, probably due to Elham's chatter in Arabic and my extensive attention going toward keeping my face as inconspicuously turned from people as possible, we managed to get into the area without questioning.
The Dome of the Rock was breathtaking. The golden dome that is so striking from even a distance was suddenly outdone by the complex as a whole. Everything about the place was beautiful. It was also nearly empty. Elham and I wandered the courtyard on our own as I just tried to take in as much as possible from the overwhelming experience.
We eventually approached the entrance to the actual building. As we removed our shoes a guard approached us and questioned my legitimately by looking at Elham and asking her in Arabic whether I was a Muslim. I immediately answered yes in unfazed Arabic as Elham stumbled over her words in English and we entered the Dome giggling over the absurdity of the situation. Leave it to the legitimate Arab Muslim to panic.
Elham and I taking a selfie outside the Dome.
Inside was just as impressive as the facade. We circled the rock or foundation stone that is the core of the Temple Mount. Dozens of stories from all the faiths circled my head as we walked around. Despite my understanding of what significant events supposedly took place here I somehow had no idea that you can actually enter the stone. A staircase near one side provides an entrance into a cavity within the rock that post visiting I discovered is sometimes referred to as the Well of Souls. Within the cavity I could hardly grasp the immensity of everything around me; I traveled across the world to study in Jerusalem and here I was literally encaved within this holy epicenter. There is not a doubt in my mind that I was living what was literally a once in a lifetime experience.
A picture depicting the inside of the Dome of the Rock. There was scaffolding up when I visited so none of my pictures came close to doing it justice.
Standing in the Well of Souls.
The trip wasn't entirely mind boggling spiritual experiences however. We still just took time to enjoy the trip. Elham showed me around the Temple Mount complex trying to remember different pieces of historical significance from her childhood field trips to the sight. The second (and final) time we were approached in question of our identity Elham came through with flying colors reciting the Qur'an so fluently they never felt the need to move on to asking me to do it (الحمد لله).
As we wandered around for the rest of our visit we stopped for a few photo ops and enjoyed catching bits of other visitors' conversations. We found quite a bit of enjoyment from Elham overhearing a group of older women say "masha'allah such cuties" as we walked by. We made sure to ask the next group of people to walk by to stop and help us take a photo.
Elham and I walking around outside the Dome of the Rock.
A shift in perception.... every day I see the Dome of the Rock from my walk to campus, now I could look out at my campus from the Temple Mount. (The Rothberg Building where I take classes is the building with the tower just above my hand.)
Although I acknowledge it may be a bit heretical, it was also an amazing experience being able to personally visit such a historic and significant site. I am so incredibly lucky to be one of few outsiders in the current era to be able to truly visit the Dome of the Rock.
